Cambodia's enthralling capital nods to the past as it embraces a bright future

Once known as the 'Paris of the East' Phnom Penh was built at the confluence of the Mekong, Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers. While the kingdom’s tumultuous past, which includes being a prominent part of France’s colonial empire, continues to exert a strong influence on present-day Phnom Penh, the city is moving on. On its wide streets, people smile and chat with an ease and friendliness that’s all too rare in big cities.

Phnom Penh remains an enthralling juxtaposition of old and new but it’s developing fast, so now is the time to visit. It’s a charming city, with lovely colonial architecture, glittering palaces and pagodas and a top-drawer dining scene (though enjoying it won’t break the bank). It makes a great base for exploring nearby historical sites and Cambodia’s gorgeous countryside. Mega malls have begun to sprout so it’s also the place to head if you’re on the hunt for familiar creature comforts.

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Flights to Phnom Penh

Things to do

  • Built to order

    Join one of Khmer Architecture Tours' fascinating three-hour walks and you may see some glorious, ochre-hued colonial mansions, some of which have been turned into hotels and eateries, such as Raffles Hotel Le Royal, The Pavilion Hotel and the Foreign Correspondents’ Club. Best are the modernist structures of the 1950s and 60s New Khmer architecture movement, like the lotus-shaped Independence Monument, the Olympic stadium and the White Building, a former social housing project where street art and art exhibitions often pop up.

  • Cross my art

    Contemporary art in Cambodia is thriving, with regular exhibitions at the town’s modern galleries and arts hubs. Java Café & Gallery, Bophana Audio-Visual Resource Center and the French Cultural Centre showcase some of the country’s most exciting young artists. The Royal University of Fine Arts is a lovely, airy space in which to take a breather, with nearby stores selling silver and laquerware, replica paintings and gems.

  • In memoriam

    It can be a harrowing experience but make a point of visiting Choeung Ek, aka the Killing Fields, 16km southwest of Phnom Penh. This infamous area stands as an eerie, sombre memorial to the estimated 20,000 people who were killed and buried here by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, or S21, a high school turned into political prison and torture centre by Pol Pot, is still swathed in barbed wire and full of haunting images of its 17,000 former inmates.

  • Meal ticket

    There's a definite buzz about the Phnom Penh food scene, with new ideas taking things beyond the already delicious traditional Cambodian cuisine. From steaming bowls of bai sach chrouk (marinated pork and rice) at breakfast or croissants and great coffee at The Shop to upscale Khmer cuisine at Malis, you'll find exciting tastes on every corner.

  • A firm hand

    Bodia is a luxurious spa with great reflexology foot massages, first-rate facials --using natural products such as jasmine oil, mango, and black sticky rice -- and traditional Khmer massage. Bodia also sells a range of products made with Cambodian ingredients. But you can get a great massage at many places in town, often two hours costs less than USD $10.

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Airport information

Phnom Penh International Airport opens in new window (PNH)

Distance to city centre 10km

Taxi There is an official taxi booth outside the arrivals area, with set prices from USD $12-18, depending on where you’re going. The trip can take anywhere from 30-60 minutes, even longer during rush hours.

Tuk tuk From within the airport tuk tuks are a set price of USD $9, if you leave the airport and find one on the street you will pay around USD $6 (depending on your negotiation skills).

Bus Phnom Penh City Bus opens in new window route 3 stops at the airport and goes to Night Market in the centre of town. It costs less than US $1 – make sure you have change.

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When to go

While temperatures are at their most searing in April, most other times of the year are pleasant. The wet season runs from June to October, when downpours tend to come in short, heavy bursts.

The city streets are very quiet over Pchum Ben, the festival of the ancestor spirits, in September and during the Khmer New Year festival in mid-April, when most of Phnom Penh’s inhabitants head to their countryside villages. Check out a pagoda, either in the city or its outskirts at these times – they’ll be filled with incense and colourful offerings. The Water Festival takes place from mid-October to November, when dragon boats race down the rivers.

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Getting around

Phnom Penh’s roads have greatly improved over the past 10 years and it’s nice to stroll along the riverside and the area surrounding the Royal Palace on foot or in a cyclo. Otherwise, taxis are available – ask someone at your hotel to arrange one first – and tuk tuks abound. It’s best to negotiate a price beforehand. It’s usually USD $3-5 for a one-way trip in town and less than USD $10 for a return.

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