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Javanese, Chinese and colonial histories merge in Indonesia's second-largest city, now a dynamic gateway to a fascinating nearby island and the enthralling spectacle of east Java's tectonic glory. Explore the medina-like labyrinth of the Arab Quarter and refuel with street food around Chinatown.
Sunset over spectacular Suramadu Bridge.
Spanning 5.4km, the Suramadu Bridge connects Surabaya to the colourful island of Madura. Spend a day or two exploring the island's gorgeous beaches and striking limestone formations, as well as some of the welcoming towns along the way. Be sure to try the local specialty bebek sinjay (crunchy fried duck with a mango and chilli sauce), before heading back to the mainland. Throughout September to October, the island hosts kerapan sapi tournaments (traditional bull racing).
Just a few hours from Surabaya you'll find Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park, an alien landscape that's home to several stunning volcanoes. Take in a truly epic sunrise from one of the popular viewpoints surrounding the caldera, then make your way across the Sea of Sand to the bottom of Mount Bromo for a hike up to the smoking crater. Weekends can get very crowded with local visitors, so try and visit on a weekday. Wrap up warmly, as sunrise even this close to the equator can be surprisingly cool.
Tumpak Sewu waterfalls from above.
Two hours south from Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park is a brace of two other Javanese natural spectacles. Roughly translating to 'Many Waterfalls', Tumpak Sewu cascades from a height of over 100m as Java's highest waterfall. Trail options include an easy 15-minute stroll from the carpark, or a challenging hike on bamboo bridges, chains and ropes to the base of the falls. Definitely hire a local guide for added security, and visit in the morning for the best photos. Nearby, tackle the 1km trail to Goa Tetes Cave, surrounded by more quicksilver cascades and framing a subterranean river.
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